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Helena and Calistoga still offer plenty for the culinary traveler, but now you can have a delicious weekend down valley, too. Janet Fletcher; travel@sfchronicle.com Ottimo Rising from the ashes of NapaStyle, chef Michael Chiarellos defunct home-goods business, Ottimo fuses retail emporium and restaurant into a compelling experience. Hungry visitors will head for the U-shaped bar in the rear for fresh mozzarella (four types) with a choice of condiments or Neapolitan-style fried pizza finished in a wood oven. Acres of Carrara marble blanket the counters and bar-height tables, perhaps one clue to why this project, according to Chiarello, ran a million dollars over budget. Diners stand to eat like in a train station, says the chef. So make like youre in Milan and chat up the stranger across the table while you toss back a macchiato or grab a prosciutto panino. Afterwards, tour the premises, a sort of foodie amusement park with a hosted tasting area for sampling housemade salumi and blood-orange marmalade; shelves of culinary collectibles like antique cheese graters and ravioli cutters; hand-pounded copperware from Naples and silver flatware from Florence; and exquisite carbon-steel chefs knives from Bhutan. By spring, the restaurant expects to have house-brewed beer on tap with the help of an Italian consultant. 6525 Washington St. (in the V Marketplace), Yountville, (707) 944-0102.

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